Phuket showed me a different face today. Yesterday was it was the rows of farang baking in the sun. Today I went to Phuket Town and everything was different.
I started my morning with a pungent fish curry and rice from an early morning stand, eating brekkie with the Thai folks on their way to work. After breaking my fast, I sauntered up to Kulong Coffee for my morning americano and a chat with Frank, the American ex-pat owner. Our talk touched on the changes in Phuket, travel, and staying clean and sober. There are regular AA meetings held at the coffee shop, frequented by the sober folks amongst the ex-pat community here in Phuket. Consider it a caffeine break and a mini-meeting.
Fortified with curry and coffee, I wandered back to the 7-Inn, my base camp here in Phuket. After some time in the shade chatting with the German contingency at the inn, and watching their daughters frolic in the narrow little pool that abuts the sliding glass doors of my room, I laid plans for the day.
I meant to take the songtheuw to town, but a scooter taxi man talked me into a ride for 100 baht. Nothing really equals passing through the crazed ballet of Thai traffic two-up on a tiny scooter. Every time I do this, I think "Today may be The Day." The one drawback to crashing on a moto-taxi is that the velocity is probably not enough to kill you, only enough to make you wish you were dead. Today, however, was not The Day, and once again Mr. Sharky had to go hungry.
(Oh! A break in blogging for a slice of wonderful banana bread, courtesy of Hermann, my new Deutsch friend)
Once in Phuket Town, I walked about, soaking up the mixture of Chinese shop houses, remnants of Portuguese architecture in the old town, and the bustle of a normal Thai provincial capitol. At lunch time, I ducked into a little Thai food shack for a fish fillet covered in some sort of curly sautéed vegetable that I am at a loss to explain. It was deeply flavored and wonderful, an absolutely new set of tastes.
I stopped at a small pool hall where the taxi drivers were relaxing. Once again, the amulet I wear became the passport to admittance. On my first visit to Thailand, I purchased an amulet at the Amulet Market in Bangkok. Most Thais who work in what are considered "dangerous" professions wear at least one amulet. Many have a whole chain of them around their necks. Taxi drivers are particularly fond of them, and if you have ever spent time in Thai traffic, you can understand the desire to petition for good luck from whatever source may provide it.
So it goes like this. When I pause to watch the billiards, the first look from the taxi guys idling about is something like "ah, great, another farang." Then someone notices my amulet and asks to examine it, calling over other drivers. Then they show me their amulets and tell me what Wat their's is from. Now it is OK for me to be there. One of the billiard players sets down a handful of the nuts they are all snacking on and motions me into the group. This has happened to me countless times in Thailand, helping me get a seat at a crowded street stall, easing sales pitches from street touts, and even helping with security folks at the airport. It is the equivalent of the special ring, or hand signals, of some secret society.
On my way again, I experience the Thai Map Shift. This phenomenon occurs when, for no apparent reason, the entire geography of whatever town one is in shifts 112 degrees from where it was. It is inexplicable. In an instant, one goes from knowing exactly where one is to being lost. In truth, the Shift is caused by taking that one turn down an intriguing soi, then another, and then: Presto! The Shift has taken place. A bit of back-tracking combined with a little head scratching and I was once again back on the map grid. It has become highly amusing now, whereas it used to be frustrating. And it still happens, despite my almost uncanny skills at navigation in a new place. Thailand towns have a way of keeping one humble if one gets too cocky.
The heat of the day finally wore me down, but not before I stumbled onto an amazing textile shop and came away two shirts richer and 1,700 baht poorer. They are lovely and one of them will remind me of Thailand, whilst the other will go to the Bollywood Star Genetic Envelope. His was the last prezzie I was lacking, so mission accomplished. Sorry Kid, spoiled the surprise.
Now I am letting the heat fade into the evening. I had planned on getting a ride up the hill to The Big Buddha (yes, the monument's real name). It is visible from most of Southern Phuket, high up and massive on its little mountain. Perhaps tomorrow morning, along with a visit to Wat Chalong, the most important Buddhist temple on the island. For now, doing nothing suits me just fine.
My last night in Thailand, for this trip. But today, Phuket made me smile.
I started my morning with a pungent fish curry and rice from an early morning stand, eating brekkie with the Thai folks on their way to work. After breaking my fast, I sauntered up to Kulong Coffee for my morning americano and a chat with Frank, the American ex-pat owner. Our talk touched on the changes in Phuket, travel, and staying clean and sober. There are regular AA meetings held at the coffee shop, frequented by the sober folks amongst the ex-pat community here in Phuket. Consider it a caffeine break and a mini-meeting.
Fortified with curry and coffee, I wandered back to the 7-Inn, my base camp here in Phuket. After some time in the shade chatting with the German contingency at the inn, and watching their daughters frolic in the narrow little pool that abuts the sliding glass doors of my room, I laid plans for the day.
I meant to take the songtheuw to town, but a scooter taxi man talked me into a ride for 100 baht. Nothing really equals passing through the crazed ballet of Thai traffic two-up on a tiny scooter. Every time I do this, I think "Today may be The Day." The one drawback to crashing on a moto-taxi is that the velocity is probably not enough to kill you, only enough to make you wish you were dead. Today, however, was not The Day, and once again Mr. Sharky had to go hungry.
(Oh! A break in blogging for a slice of wonderful banana bread, courtesy of Hermann, my new Deutsch friend)
Once in Phuket Town, I walked about, soaking up the mixture of Chinese shop houses, remnants of Portuguese architecture in the old town, and the bustle of a normal Thai provincial capitol. At lunch time, I ducked into a little Thai food shack for a fish fillet covered in some sort of curly sautéed vegetable that I am at a loss to explain. It was deeply flavored and wonderful, an absolutely new set of tastes.
I stopped at a small pool hall where the taxi drivers were relaxing. Once again, the amulet I wear became the passport to admittance. On my first visit to Thailand, I purchased an amulet at the Amulet Market in Bangkok. Most Thais who work in what are considered "dangerous" professions wear at least one amulet. Many have a whole chain of them around their necks. Taxi drivers are particularly fond of them, and if you have ever spent time in Thai traffic, you can understand the desire to petition for good luck from whatever source may provide it.
So it goes like this. When I pause to watch the billiards, the first look from the taxi guys idling about is something like "ah, great, another farang." Then someone notices my amulet and asks to examine it, calling over other drivers. Then they show me their amulets and tell me what Wat their's is from. Now it is OK for me to be there. One of the billiard players sets down a handful of the nuts they are all snacking on and motions me into the group. This has happened to me countless times in Thailand, helping me get a seat at a crowded street stall, easing sales pitches from street touts, and even helping with security folks at the airport. It is the equivalent of the special ring, or hand signals, of some secret society.
On my way again, I experience the Thai Map Shift. This phenomenon occurs when, for no apparent reason, the entire geography of whatever town one is in shifts 112 degrees from where it was. It is inexplicable. In an instant, one goes from knowing exactly where one is to being lost. In truth, the Shift is caused by taking that one turn down an intriguing soi, then another, and then: Presto! The Shift has taken place. A bit of back-tracking combined with a little head scratching and I was once again back on the map grid. It has become highly amusing now, whereas it used to be frustrating. And it still happens, despite my almost uncanny skills at navigation in a new place. Thailand towns have a way of keeping one humble if one gets too cocky.
The heat of the day finally wore me down, but not before I stumbled onto an amazing textile shop and came away two shirts richer and 1,700 baht poorer. They are lovely and one of them will remind me of Thailand, whilst the other will go to the Bollywood Star Genetic Envelope. His was the last prezzie I was lacking, so mission accomplished. Sorry Kid, spoiled the surprise.
Now I am letting the heat fade into the evening. I had planned on getting a ride up the hill to The Big Buddha (yes, the monument's real name). It is visible from most of Southern Phuket, high up and massive on its little mountain. Perhaps tomorrow morning, along with a visit to Wat Chalong, the most important Buddhist temple on the island. For now, doing nothing suits me just fine.
My last night in Thailand, for this trip. But today, Phuket made me smile.
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