Sunday, 3/17 Ko Tarutao, Ao Molac
As smooth as Thai travel goes, that was the trip from the bustle of Hat yai to the peace of Ao Mowlac. Peaceful except for the monkeys, of course.
"Ao" means beach in Thai, and Ao Mowlac is one of the best.
I am sitting in front of my bungalow looking out ar a stunning bay on the Straits of Malacca, smoking a Padron. I am writing this by hand as there is no electricty on the island except from about 17:30 to 22:30. (I am transcribing this days later, of course) I have to save the batteries on my devices because all of my books are stored on the devices and I would hate to be in paradise, or perdition for that matter, without a good book.
We boarded a vomit van at Hat Yai, traveling the 90-odd kilometers to Pakbara on suprisingly good roads, and thus not truly a vomit van. The pier and town of Pakbara were the usual assemblage of travel kiosks, food stalls and the like. Around these buzzed a swarm of travelers, moslty going to the tiny island of Ko Lipe, or on day tours to Ko Tarutao. Ko Lipe is the party island. Taturao is the quiet place. Except for the monnkeys.
The speedboat to Tarutao was scheduled for 11:30. Ten "Thai-minute" after that (read one hour) we took off from the dock, pulling away in a fully loaded cigarette type ocean speed boat that had seen long service and better days. Wisking across the wave tops of the Andaman Sea, we arrived at Ao Pante Malaka Pier, where we paid our 200 baht entrance fee into the National Park.
After a four kilometer ride on the Songtheuw, we were dropped here, at Ao Molac, s string of about ten double bungalows, an open air ktichen and dining area, and nothing else. Meals are served from 7 Am until 2 PM and from 5 PM until 8 PM. There is no bar, so there is no late night craziness. There are no other stores, cafes, or anything else. There is the beach, the headlands that encompass it, and the sun dropping into the warm ocean. As darkness falls, the lights of the fishing boats beome visible out on the open water, three kilometers or more off shore.
Despite getting here in the afternoon, I still managed an 8 kilometer hike down to the next beach, Ao Son. Steep hills of jungle, wide beaches, and almost no people.
This is peace.
As smooth as Thai travel goes, that was the trip from the bustle of Hat yai to the peace of Ao Mowlac. Peaceful except for the monkeys, of course.
"Ao" means beach in Thai, and Ao Mowlac is one of the best.
I am sitting in front of my bungalow looking out ar a stunning bay on the Straits of Malacca, smoking a Padron. I am writing this by hand as there is no electricty on the island except from about 17:30 to 22:30. (I am transcribing this days later, of course) I have to save the batteries on my devices because all of my books are stored on the devices and I would hate to be in paradise, or perdition for that matter, without a good book.
The speedboat to Tarutao was scheduled for 11:30. Ten "Thai-minute" after that (read one hour) we took off from the dock, pulling away in a fully loaded cigarette type ocean speed boat that had seen long service and better days. Wisking across the wave tops of the Andaman Sea, we arrived at Ao Pante Malaka Pier, where we paid our 200 baht entrance fee into the National Park.
After a four kilometer ride on the Songtheuw, we were dropped here, at Ao Molac, s string of about ten double bungalows, an open air ktichen and dining area, and nothing else. Meals are served from 7 Am until 2 PM and from 5 PM until 8 PM. There is no bar, so there is no late night craziness. There are no other stores, cafes, or anything else. There is the beach, the headlands that encompass it, and the sun dropping into the warm ocean. As darkness falls, the lights of the fishing boats beome visible out on the open water, three kilometers or more off shore.
Despite getting here in the afternoon, I still managed an 8 kilometer hike down to the next beach, Ao Son. Steep hills of jungle, wide beaches, and almost no people.
This is peace.
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